An Insight into Skincare and Antiaging Products Derived from Marine Origin
Abstract
Marine resources are attracting significant attention from the cosmetics sector as a source of active ingredients. The oligo-elements like iron, copper and zinc, as well as proteins, amino acids, carbohydrates and vitamins A, B and C, are abundant in both micro- and macro-algae. These active components provide a range of benefits including hydration, firmness, shine, protection and slimming effects. Marine life is found in a variety of environments, each offering unique compounds with beneficial properties. Organisms living in places with high UV radiation levels, like tropical regions or shallow seas, can create compounds that provide photoprotection. Similarly, microbes that thrive in extreme conditions, such as hydrothermal vents, can produce substances with antioxidant properties. Polysaccharides from marine algae, such as alginate and carrageenan have been developed as cosmetics owing to their moisturising and skin-barrier enhancing properties. The scientific community believe that harnessing the potential of marine bioactive compounds is highly beneficial as medicinal products. By exploiting these resources, the skincare industry can develop innovative medicinal products that promote healthy, youthful skin while supporting environmental sustainability. In the present review, we have discussed the compounds derived from marine sources and their skin-nourishing properties marine-derived compounds, emphasising their role in developing novel skincare and antiaging products.
References
Alves-Silva JM, Guerra I, Gonçalves MJ, Cavaleiro C, Cruz MT, Figueirinha A, et al. Chemical composition of Crithmum maritimum L. essential oil and hydrodistillation residual water by GC-MS and HPLC-DAD-MS/MS, and their biological activities. Ind Crops Prod. 2020 Jul;149. doi: 10.1016/j.indcrop.2020.112329.
Siddiqui T, Khan MU, Sharma V, Gupta K. Terpenoids in essential oils: Chemistry, classification, and potential impact on human health and industry. Phytomedicine Plus. 2024;4(2):100549. doi: 10.1016/j.phyplu.2024.100549.
Bellou S, Aggelis G. Biochemical activities in Chlorella sp. and Nannochloropsis salina during lipid and sugar synthesis in a lab-scale open pond simulating reactor. J Biotechnol. 2012 Dec;164(2):318–29. doi: 10.1016/J.JBIOTEC.2013.01.010.
Brunt EG, Burgess JG. The promise of marine molecules as cosmetic active ingredients. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2018 Feb;40(1):1–15. doi: 10.1111/ICS.12435.
Mukherjee A, Das S, Chakraborty D, Pal N, Das N. Fungi’s treasure in cosmeceuticals-a comprehensive chemical approach. South African J Bot. 2024 Mar;166:311–31. doi: 10.1016/j.sajb.2024.01.036.
Jolly A, Kim H, Moon JY, Mohan A, Lee YC. Exploring the imminent trends of saponins in personal care product development: A review. Ind Crops Prod. 2023 Dec;205:117489. doi: 10.1016/j.indcrop.2023.117489.
Anbualakan K, Tajul Urus NQ, Makpol S, Jamil A, Mohd Ramli ES, Md Pauzi SH, et al. A scoping review on the effects of carotenoids and flavonoids on skin damage due to ultraviolet radiation. Nutrients. 2022 Dec 24;15(1):92. doi: 10.3390/nu15010092.
Aslam A, Bahadar A, Liaquat R, Saleem M, Waqas A, Zwawi M. Algae as an attractive source for cosmetics to counter environmental stress. Sci Total Environ. 2021 Jun 10;772:144905. doi: 10.1016/j.scitotenv.2020.144905.
Pallela R, Na-Young Y, Kim SK. Anti-photoaging and photoprotective compounds derived from marine organisms. Mar Drugs. 2010;8(4):1189–202. doi: 10.3390/MD8041189.
Blanco-Dávila F. Beauty and the body: The origins of cosmetics. Plast Reconstr Surg. 2000;105(3):1196–204. doi: 10.1097/00006534-200003000-00058.
Shen CT, Chen PY, Wu JJ, Lee TM, Hsu SL, Chang CMJ, et al. Purification of algal anti-tyrosinase zeaxanthin from Nannochloropsis oculata using supercritical anti-solvent precipitation. J Supercrit Fluids. 2011 Jan;55(3):955–62. doi: 10.1016/J.SUPFLU.2010.10.003.
Siezen RJ. Microbial sunscreens. Microb Biotechnol. 2011 Jan;4(1):1–7. doi: 10.1111/J.1751-7915.2010.00241.X.
Lødemel JB, Egge-Jacobsen W, Olsen RL. Detection of TIMP-2-like protein in Atlantic cod (Gadus morhua) muscle using two-dimensional real-time reverse zymography. Comp Biochem Physiol - B Biochem Mol Biol. 2004;139(2):253–9. doi: 10.1016/J.CBPC.2004.08.004.
Moreno-González M, Chuekitkumchorn P, Silva M, Groenewoud R, Ottens M. High throughput process development for the purification of rapeseed proteins napin and cruciferin by ion exchange chromatography. Food Bioprod Process. 2021 Jan;125:228–41. doi: 10.1016/J.FBP.2020.11.011.
Cai B, Chen H, Wan P, Luo L, Ye Z, Huang J, et al. Isolation and identification of immunomodulatory peptides from the protein hydrolysate of tuna trimmings (Thunnas albacares). LWT. 2022 Jul;164:113614. doi: 10.1016/J.LWT.2022.113614.
Chakdar H, Pabbi S. Algal Pigments for Human Health and Cosmeceuticals. Algal Green Chem Recent Prog Biotechnol. 2017 May;171–88. doi: 10.1016/B978-0-444-63784-0.00009-6.
Deering RW, Chen J, Sun J, Ma H, Dubert J, Barja JL, et al. N-Acyl Dehydrotyrosines, tyrosinase inhibitors from the marine bacterium Thalassotalea sp. PP2-459. J Nat Prod. 2016 Feb;79(2):447–50. doi: 10.1021/ACS.JNATPROD.5B00972.
Zhang C, Li Y, Shi X, Kim SK. Inhibition of the expression on MMP-2, 9 and morphological changes via human fibrosarcoma cell line by 6,6’-bieckol from marine alga Ecklonia cava. BMB Rep. 2010;43(1):62–8. doi: 10.5483/BMBREP.2010.43.1.062.
Lin SH, Juang RS. Heavy metal removal from water by sorption using surfactant-modified montmorillonite. J Hazard Mater. 2002 Jun;92(3):315–26. doi: 10.1016/S0304-3894(02)00026-2.
Kim SK. Marine cosmeceuticals. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2014;13(1):56–67. doi: 10.1111/JOCD.12057.
Chen Y, Chen J, Chen J, Yu H, Zheng Y, Zhao J, et al. Recent advances in seafood bioactive peptides and their potential for managing osteoporosis. Crit Rev Food Sci Nutr. 2022;62(5):1187–203. doi: 10.1080/10408398.2020.1836606.
Sorrels CM, Proteau PJ, Gerwick WH. Organization, evolution, and expression analysis of the biosynthetic gene cluster for scytonemin, a cyanobacterial UV-absorbing pigment. Appl Environ Microbiol. 2009 Jul;75(14):4861–9. doi: 10.1128/AEM.02508-08.
Gao Q, Garcia-Pichel F. Microbial ultraviolet sunscreens. Nat Rev Microbiol. 2011 Nov;9(11):791–802. doi: 10.1038/NRMICRO2649.
Yoon NY, Eom TK, Kim MM, Kim SK. Inhibitory effect of phlorotannins isolated from Ecklonia cava on mushroom tyrosinase activity and melanin formation in mouse B16F10 melanoma cells. J Agric Food Chem. 2009 May;57(10):4124–9. doi: 10.1021/JF900006F.
Proteau PJ, Gerwick WH, Garcia-Pichel F, Castenholz R. The structure of scytonemin, an ultraviolet sunscreen pigment from the sheaths of cyanobacteria. Experientia. 1993 Sep;49(9):825–9. doi: 10.1007/BF01923559.
Generalić Mekinić I, Šimat V, Rathod NB, Hamed I, Čagalj M. Algal carotenoids: chemistry, sources, and application. Foods 2023;12(14):2768. doi: 10.3390/foods12142768.
Wang HMD, Chen CC, Huynh P, Chang JS. Exploring the potential of using algae in cosmetics. Bioresour Technol. 2015 May;184:355–62. doi: 10.1016/J.BIORTECH.2014.12.001.
Diffey BL. Solar ultraviolet radiation effects on biological systems. Phys Med Biol. 1991;36(3):299–328. doi: 10.1088/0031-9155/36/3/001.
Pillaiyar T, Manickam M, Namasivayam V. Skin whitening agents: Medicinal chemistry perspective of tyrosinase inhibitors. J Enzyme Inhib Med Chem. 2017;32(1):403–25. doi: 10.1080/14756366.2016.1256882.
Rastogi RP, Sonani RR, Madamwar D. Cyanobacterial sunscreen scytonemin: role in photoprotection and biomedical research. Appl Biochem Biotechnol. 2015 Jul;176(6):1551–63. doi: 10.1007/S12010-015-1676-1.
Sim GS, Lee BC, Ho SC, Jae WL, Kim JH, Lee DH, et al. Structure activity relationship of antioxidative property of flavonoids and inhibitory effect on matrix metalloproteinase activity in UVA-irradiated human dermal fibroblast. Arch Pharm Res. 2007 Mar;30(3):290–8. doi: 10.1007/BF02977608.
Rastogi RP, Incharoensakdi A. Characterization of UV-screening compounds, mycosporine-like amino acids, and scytonemin in the cyanobacterium Lyngbya sp. CU2555. FEMS Microbiol Ecol. 2014 Jan;87(1):244–56. doi: 10.1111/1574-6941.12220.
Rastogi RP, Sinha RP, Incharoensakdi A. Partial characterization, UV-induction and photoprotective function of sunscreen pigment, scytonemin from Rivularia sp. HKAR-4. Chemosphere. 2013;93(9):1874–8. doi: 10.1016/J.CHEMOSPHERE.2013.06.057.
Ehling-Schulz M, Bilger W, Scherer S. UV-B-induced synthesis of photoprotective pigments and extracellular polysaccharides in the terrestrial cyanobacterium Nostoc commune. J Bacteriol. 1997;179(6):1940–5. doi: 10.1128/JB.179.6.1940-1945.1997.
Ma’or Z, Halicz L, Portugal-Cohen M, Russo MZ, Robino F, Vanhaecke T, et al. Safety evaluation of traces of nickel and chrome in cosmetics: The case of Dead Sea mud. Regul Toxicol Pharmacol. 2015 Dec;73(3):797–801. doi: 10.1016/J.YRTPH.2015.10.016.
Kim MM, Ta Q Van, Mendis E, Rajapakse N, Jung WK, Byun HG, et al. Phlorotannins in Ecklonia cava extract inhibit matrix metalloproteinase activity. Life Sci. 2006 Sep;79(15):1436–43. doi: 10.1016/J.LFS.2006.04.022.
McCullough JL, Kelly KM. Prevention and treatment of skin aging. Ann N Y Acad Sci. 2006;1067(1):323–31. doi: 10.1196/ANNALS.1354.044.
Rittié L, Fisher GJ. UV-light-induced signal cascades and skin aging. Ageing Res Rev. 2002;1(4):705–20. doi: 10.1016/S1568-1637(02)00024-7.
Sinha RP, Singh SP, Häder DP. Database on mycosporines and mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) in fungi, cyanobacteria, macroalgae, phytoplankton and animals. J Photochem Photobiol B Biol. 2007 Nov;89(1):29–35. doi: 10.1016/J.JPHOTOBIOL.2007.07.006.
Zhang C, Kim SK. Matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors (MMPIs) from marine natural products: The current situation and future prospects. Mar Drugs. 2009;7(2):71–84. doi: 10.3390/MD7020071.
Martins A, Vieira H, Gaspar H, Santos S. Marketed marine natural products in the pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries: Tips for success. Mar Drugs. 2014;12(2):1066–101. doi: 10.3390/MD12021066.
Poli A, Anzelmo G, Nicolaus B. Bacterial exopolysaccharides from extreme marine habitats: Production, characterization and biological activities. Mar Drugs. 2010;8(6):1779–802. doi: 10.3390/MD8061779.
Ryu BM, Qian ZJ, Kim SK. Purification of a peptide from seahorse, that inhibits TPA-induced MMP, iNOS and COX-2 expression through MAPK and NF-κB activation, and induces human osteoblastic and chondrocytic differentiation. Chem Biol Interact. 2010 Mar;184(3):413–22. doi: 10.1016/J.CBI.2009.12.003.
Shindo K, Kikuta K, Suzuki A, Katsuta A, Kasai H, Yasumoto-Hirose M, et al. Rare carotenoids, (3R)-saproxanthin and (3R,2′S)-myxol, isolated from novel marine bacteria (Flavobacteriaceae) and their antioxidative activities. Appl Microbiol Biotechnol. 2007 Apr;74(6):1350–7. doi: 10.1007/S00253-006-0774-Y.
Sanjeewa KKA, Kim EA, Son KT, Jeon YJ. Bioactive properties and potentials cosmeceutical applications of phlorotannins isolated from brown seaweeds: A review. J Photochem Photobiol B Biol. 2016;162:100–5. doi: 10.1016/J.JPHOTOBIOL.2016.06.027.
Le Costaouëc T, Cérantola S, Ropartz D, Ratiskol J, Sinquin C, Colliec-Jouault S, et al. Structural data on a bacterial exopolysaccharide produced by a deep-sea Alteromonas macleodii strain. Carbohydr Polym. 2012 Sep;90(1):49–59. doi: 10.1016/J.CARBPOL.2012.04.059.
Price RD, Berry MG, Navsaria HA. Hyaluronic acid: the scientific and clinical evidence. J Plast Reconstr Aesthetic Surg. 2007 Oct;60(10):1110–9. doi: 10.1016/J.BJPS.2007.03.005.
Courtois A, Berthou C, Guézennec J, Boisset C, Bordron A. Exopolysaccharides isolated from hydrothermal vent bacteria can modulate the complement system. PLoS One. 2014 Apr 15;9(4):e94965. doi: 10.1371/journal.pone.0094965.
Bloch JF, Tardieu-Guigues E. Marine biotechnologies and synthetic biology, new issues for a fair and equitable profit-sharing commercial use. Mar Genomics. 2014 Oct;17:79–83. doi: 10.1016/J.MARGEN.2014.07.003.
Tripathi U, Sarada R, Ramachandra Rao S, Ravishankar GA. Production of astaxanthin in Haematacoccus pluvialis cultured in various media. Bioresour Technol. 1999 May;68(2):197–9. doi: 10.1016/S0960-8524(98)00143-6.
Zaccai G, Bagyan I, Combet J, Cuello GJ, Demé B, Fichou Y, et al. Neutrons describe ectoine effects on water H-bonding and hydration around a soluble protein and a cell membrane. Sci Rep. 2016 Aug 16;6:31434. doi: 10.1038/srep31434.
Danovaro R, Snelgrove PVR, Tyler P. Challenging the paradigms of deep-sea ecology. Trends Ecol Evol. 2014;29(8):465–75. doi: 10.1016/J.TREE.2014.06.002.
Mora C, Tittensor DP, Adl S, Simpson AGB, Worm B. How many species are there on earth and in the ocean? PLoS Biol. 2011 Aug;9(8): 1001127. doi: 10.1371/JOURNAL.PBIO.1001127.
De Jesus Raposo MF, De Morais RMSC, De Morais AMMB. Health applications of bioactive compounds from marine microalgae. Life Sci. 2013;93(15):479–86. doi: 10.1016/J.LFS.2013.08.002.
Alvarez-Rivera G, Llompart M, Garcia-Jares C, Lores M. Identification of unwanted photoproducts of cosmetic preservatives in personal care products under ultraviolet-light using solid-phase microextraction and micro-matrix solid-phase dispersion. J Chromatogr A. 2015 Apr;1390:1–12. doi: 10.1016/J.CHROMA.2015.02.056.
Blunt JW, Copp BR, Keyzers RA, Munro MHG, Prinsep MR. Marine natural products. Nat Prod Rep. 2016 Mar;33(3):382–431. doi: 10.1039/C5NP00156K.
Jimbo N, Kawada C, Nomura Y. Optimization of dose of collagen hydrolysate to prevent UVB-irradiated skin damage. Biosci Biotechnol Biochem. 2016;80(2):356–9. doi: 10.1080/09168451.2015.1086258.
Liming J, Chunshan Q, Xiyan H, Shengdi F. Potential pharmacological resources: Natural bioactive compounds from marine-derived fungi. Mar Drugs. 2016 Apr;14(4): 14040076. doi: 10.3390/MD14040076.
Heinrich U, Garbe B, Tronnier H. In vivo assessment of ectoin: A randomized, vehicle-controlled clinical trial. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2007 Jun;20(4):211–8. doi: 10.1159/000103204.
Venkatesan J, Anil S, Kim SK, Shim MS. Marine fish proteins and peptides for cosmeceuticals: A review. Mar Drugs. 2017 May;15(5):15050143. doi: 10.3390/MD15050143.
Dong C, Li M, Zhang R, Lu W, Xu L, Liu J, et al. The expression of antibacterial peptide turgencin a in pichia pastoris and an analysis of its antibacterial activity. Molecules. 2023 Jul;28(14):28145405. doi: 10.3390/MOLECULES28145405.
Alavi F, Ciftci ON. Purification and fractionation of bioactive peptides through membrane filtration: A critical and application review. Trends Food Sci Technol. 2023 Jan;131:118–28. doi: 10.1016/J.TIFS.2022.11.024.
Khatkar SK, Dudi K, Lonkar SA, Sidhu KS, Khatkar AB, Chandla NK, et al. An overview of membrane technology in dairy & food industry. Nov Technol Food Sci. 2022 Dec;65–108. doi: 10.1002/9781119776376.CH3.
Ghalamara S, Coscueta ER, Silva S, Brazinha C, Pereira CD, Pintado ME. Integrated ultrafiltration, nanofiltration, and reverse osmosis pilot process to produce bioactive protein/peptide fractions from sardine cooking effluent. J Environ Manage. 2022 Sep;317:115344. doi: 10.1016/J.JENVMAN.2022.115344.
Ri S, Zha S, Kim T, Ju K, Zhou W, Shi W, et al. Identification, characterization, and antimicrobial activity of a novel big defensin discovered in a commercial bivalve mollusc, Tegillarca granosa. Fish Shellfish Immunol. 2022 May;124:174–81. doi: 10.1016/J.FSI.2022.04.003.
Sila A, Bougatef A. Antioxidant peptides from marine by-products: Isolation, identification and application in food systems. A review. J Funct Foods. 2016 Mar;21:10–26. doi: 10.1016/J.JFF.2015.11.007.
Cai S, Wang J, Wang K, Chen D, Dong X, Liu T, et al. Expression, purification and antibacterial activity of NK-lysin mature peptides from the channel catfish (Ictalurus punctatus). Appl Sci. 2016 Aug;6(9):240. doi: 10.3390/APP6090240.
Burger P, Landreau A, Azoulay S, Michel T, Fernandez X. Skin whitening cosmetics: Feedback and challenges in the development of natural skin lighteners. Cosmetics. 2016 Dec;3(4):36. doi: 10.3390/COSMETICS3040036.
Lobine D, Rengasamy KRR, Mahomoodally MF. Functional foods and bioactive ingredients harnessed from the ocean: current status and future perspectives. Crit Rev Food Sci Nutr. 2022;62(21):5794–823. doi: 10.1080/10408398.2021.1893643.
Ahuekwe EF, Isibor PO, Oziegbe O, Salami AO, Akinyosoye AD, Akinhanmi F, et al. Nanochitosan derived from marine bacteria. Next Gener Nanochitosan Appl Anim Husbandry, Aquac Food Conserv. 2023 Jan;147–68. doi: 10.1016/B978-0-323-85593-8.00033-3.
Adams JS, Sutar Y, Dhoble S, Maiti C, Hanjankar SN, Das R, et al. Pharmaceutical and biomedical polymers: Basics, modifications, and applications. Polym Pharm Biomed Appl Fundam Sel Prep. 2024 Jan;1–86. doi: 10.1016/B978-0-323-95496-9.00001-6.
- Authors retain copyright and grant the journal right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this journal.
- Authors are able to enter into separate, additional contractual arrangements for the non-exclusive distribution of the journal's published version of the work (e.g., post it to an institutional repository or publish it in a book), with an acknowledgement of its initial publication in this journal.
- Authors are permitted and encouraged to post their work online (e.g., in institutional repositories or on their website) prior to and during the submission process, as it can lead to productive exchanges, as well as earlier and greater citation of published work (See The Effect of Open Access).