Alp Rose stem cells, olive oil squalene and a natural alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier: Are they appropriate ingredients of skin moisturizers – in vivo efficency on normal and sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin?

Mila Filipović; Ana Gledović; Milica Lukić; Marija Tasić-Kostov; Tanja Isailović; Ivana Pantelić; Gordana Vuleta; Snežana Savić

doi:10.2298/VSP150116122F

Mila Filipović Higher Education School of Professional Health Studies, Belgrade, Serbia
Ana Gledović Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Belgrade, Belgrade, Serbia
Milica Lukić Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Belgrade, Belgrade, Serbia
Marija Tasić-Kostov Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Medicine, University of Niš, Niš, Serbia
Tanja Isailović Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Belgrade, Belgrade, Serbia
Ivana Pantelić Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Belgrade, Belgrade, Serbia
Gordana Vuleta Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Belgrade, Belgrade, Serbia
Snežana Savić Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Belgrade, Belgrade, Serbia

DOI: https://doi.org/10.2298/VSP150116122F

Keywords: plant extracts, stem cells, cosmetics, skin, squalene, emulsifying agents, skin irritancy tests,

Abstract

Background/Aim. Since skin moisturization may be achieved by both actives and chosen carrier, plant stem cells, squalene and natural alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier may be potential components of contemporary cosmetic products. The aim of the study was in vivo evaluation of the skin irritation potential and the efficacy of Alpine Rose stem cells incorporated into liposomes and olive oil squalene as ingredients of moisturizing creams, with respect to the novel emulsifier used for creams’ stabilization. Methods. With the employment of noninvasive skin biophysical measurements, skin hydration (EC), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), erythema index (EI) and viscoelasticity were measured on 76 healthy volunteers. In the first phase, skin irritation after a 24-hour occlusion and the long-term efficacy of creams (a 21-day study) on healthy skin were evaluated. Phase II of the study focused on the cream efficacy assessment after a 6-day treatment of sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin. Results. After a 24-hour occlusion, there were no significant changes in the EI for any tested sample. In the second phase of the study, the EI was not significantly altered for the cream containing squalene, while the application of all active samples resulted in a significant reduction of TEWL. In both phases of the study an EC increase was recorded, especially for the squalene-containing cream. Conclusion. Due to the lack of skin irritation and skin barrier impairment along with the marked hydration effect, it could be said that the investigated actives incorporated into alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier-stabilized creams may be safely applied as ingredients for "tailor-made" cosmetic moisturizers intended for normal and dry skin care, whereas olive oil squalene could be used for the treatment of irritated or sensitive skin as well.

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