Matične ćelije alpske ruže, skvalen maslinovog ulja i prirodni alkil-poliglukozidni emulgator: da li su odgovarajući sastojci kremova za vlaženje – in vivo efikasnost na zdravoj i koži iritiranoj natrijum lauril sulfatom

  • Mila Filipović Higher Education School of Professional Health Studies, Belgrade, Serbia
  • Ana Gledović Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Belgrade, Belgrade, Serbia
  • Milica Lukić Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Belgrade, Belgrade, Serbia
  • Marija Tasić-Kostov Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Medicine, University of Niš, Niš, Serbia
  • Tanja Isailović Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Belgrade, Belgrade, Serbia
  • Ivana Pantelić Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Belgrade, Belgrade, Serbia
  • Gordana Vuleta Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Belgrade, Belgrade, Serbia
  • Snežana Savić Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Belgrade, Belgrade, Serbia
DOI: https://doi.org/10.2298/VSP150116122F
Ključne reči: plant extracts||, ||ekstrakti, biljni, stem cells||, ||ćelije, matične, cosmetics||, ||kozmetička sredstva, skin||, ||koža, squalene||, ||skvalen, emulsifying agents||, ||emulzije, skin irritancy tests||, iritacija, testovi.,

Sažetak


Uvod/Cilj. S obzirom na to da vlaženje kože može biti postignuto izborom kako aktivnih supstanci, tako i odgovarajućeg nosača, biljne matične ćelije, skvalen i prirodni alkil poliglukozidni emulgator mogu biti potencijalni sastojci savremenih kozmetičkih proizvoda. Cilj ovog rada bio je in vivo procena iritiranog potencijala i efikasnosti matičnih ćelija alpske ruže dodatih u liposome i skvalena maslinovog ulja, kao sastojaka vlažećih krema, imajući u vidu nov emulgator koji je korišćen za njihovu stabilizaciju. Metode. Upotrebom neinvazivnih metoda zasnovanih na biofizičkim merenjima na koži, kod 76 zdravih dobrovoljaca mereni su: hidratacija kože (EC), transepidermalni gubitak vlage (TEWL), eritema indeks (EI) i viskoelastičnost kože. U prvoj fazi studije vršena je procena iritacije kože nakon 24-h okluzije, kao i procena efikasnosti krema nakon primene na zdravoj koži dobrovoljaca u trajanju od 21 dana. Druga faza studije bila je bazirana na proceni efikasnosti krema nakon 6-dnevnog tretmana kože prethodno iritirane natrijum-lauril-sulfatom. Rezultati. Nakon 24-h okluzije nije bilo značajne promene vrednosti EI ni kod jednog ispitivanog krema. U drugoj fazi studije, krem sa skvalenom nije značajno uticao na promenu vrednosti EI, dok je primena svih aktivnih krema dovela do značajnog sniženja vrednosti TEWL. U obe faze studije zabeležen je porast EC, naročito nakon primene krema koji sadrži skvalen. Zaključak. Uzevši u obzir odsustvo nadraženosti kože i narušavanja kožne barijere, kao i porast hidratacije površinskog sloja kože, može se reći da se ispitivane aktivne supstance ubačene u kreme stabilizovane alkil-poliglukozidnim emulgatorom mogu bezbedno koristiti kao komponente tzv. „skrojenih“ kozmetičkih ovlaživača namenjenih za negu zdrave i suve kože, dok se skvalen maslinovog ulja može koristiti i za negu iritirane i osetljive kože.

 

Reference

Lodén M. Effect of moisturizers on epidermal barrier function. Clin Dermatol 2012; 30(3): 286−96.

Lodén M. Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. Am J Clin Dermatol 2003; 4(11): 771−88.

Buraczewska-Norin I. Skin barrier responses to moisturizers: functional and biochemical changes. In: Lodén M, Maibach H, editors. Treatment of dry skin syndrome. Berlin: Springer; 2012. p. 525−44.

Schürch C, Blum P, Zülli F. Potential of plant cells in culture for cosmetic application. Phytochem Rev 2007; 7(3): 599−605.

Phyto Cell Tec TM Al rose. Available from: http://www.phytocelltec.ch/pctalprose.php

(last access 20.08.2014.)

Huang Z, Lin Y, Fang J. Biological and pharmacological activi-ties of squalene and related compounds: potential uses in cosmetic dermatology. Molecules 2009; 14(1): 540−54.

Wołosik K, Knaś M, Zalewska A, Niczyporuk M, Przystupa AW. The importance and perspective of plant-based squalene in cosmetology. J Cosmet Sci 2013; 64(1): 59−66.

Lukic M, Pantelic I, Daniels R, Müller-Goymann C, Savic M, Savic S. Moisturizing emulsion systems based on the novel long-chain alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier. J Therm Anal Calorim 2012; 111(3): 2045−57.

Holmberg K. Natural surfactants. Curr Opin Colloid Interface Sci 2001; 6(2): 148−59.

Savic S, Lukic M, Jaksic I, Reichl S, Tamburic S, Müller-Goymann C. An alkyl polyglucoside-mixed emulsifier as stabilizer of emul-sion systems: The influence of colloidal structure on emul-sions skin hydration potential. J Colloid Interf Sci 2011; 358(1): 182−91.

Markovic-Bogdanovic D, Tasic-Kostov M, Lukic M, Isailovic T, Krsto-nosic V, Daniels R, et al. Physicochemical Characterization and in vivo Skin Performance of a Novel Alkyl Polyglucoside Emulsifier in Natural Cosmetic Cream-Bases. Tenside Surfact Det 2014; 51(2): 133−45.

Berardesca E. EEMCO guidance for the assessment of stratum corneum hydration: electrical methods. Skin Res Technol 1997; 3: 126−32.

Rogiers V. EEMCO guidance for the assessment of transepi-dermal water loss in cosmetic sciences. Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol 2001; 14(2): 117−28.

Fullerton A, Fischer T, Lahti A, Wilhelm KP, Takiwaki H, Serup J. Guidelines for measurement of skin colour and erythema. A report from the Standardization Group of the European So-ciety of Contact Dermatitis. Contact Derm 1996; 35(1): 1−10.

Pinnagoda J, Tupker RA, Agner T, Serup J. Guidelines for transe-pidermal water loss (TEWL) measurement. A report from the Standardization Group of the European Society of Contact Dermatitis. Contact Derm 1990; 22(3): 164−78.

Berry N, Charmeil C, Goujon C, Silvy A, Girard P, Corcuff P, et al. A clinical, biometrological and ultrastructural study of xerotic skin. Int J Cosmet Sci 1999; 21(4): 241−52.

Tupker RA, Willis C, Berardesca E, Lee CH, Fartasch M, Agner T, et al. Guidelines on sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) exposure tests. A report from the Standardization Group of the European Society of Contact Dermatitis. Contact Derm 1997; 37(2): 53−69.

Arsić I, Žugić A, Tadić V, Tasić-Kostov M, Mišić D, Primorac M, Runjaić-Antić D. Estimation of Dermatological Application of Creams with St. John’s Wort Oil Extracts. Molecules 2011; 17(12): 275−94.

Friebe K, Effendy I, Löffler H. Effects of skin occlusion in patch testing with sodium lauryl sulphate. Br J Dermatol 2003; 148(1): 65−9.

Zhai H, Maibach HI. Occlusion vs. skin barrier function. Skin Res Technol 2002; 8(1): 1−6.

Ramsing DW, Agner T. Effect of glove occlusion on human skin. (I). short-term experimental exposure. Contact Derm 1996; 34(1): 1−5.

Fluhr JW, Lazzerini S, Distante F, Gloor M, Berardesca E. Effects of prolonged occlusion on stratum corneum barrier function and water holding capacity. Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Phy-siol 1999; 12(4): 193−8.

Rahimpour Y, Hamishehkar H. Liposomes in cosmeceutics. Ex-pert Opin Drug Deliv 2012; 9(4): 443−55.

Savic S, Tamburic S, Savic M, Cekic N, Milic J, Vuleta G. Vehicle-controlled effect of urea on normal and SLS-irritated skin. Int J Pharm 2004; 271(1−2): 269−80.

Tasic-Kostov MZ, Reichl S, Lukic MZ, Jaksic IN, Savic SD. Does lactobionic acid affect the colloidal structure and skin moistu-rizing potential of the alkyl polyglucoside-based emulsion sys-tems. Pharmazie 2011; 66(11): 862−70.

de Plessis J, Stefaniak A, Eloff F, John S, Agner T, Chou T, et al. In-ternational guidelines for the in vivo assessment of skin properties in non-clinical settings: Part 2. transepidermal water loss and skin hydration. Skin Res Technol 2013; 19(3): 265−78.

Ryu HS, Joo YH, Kim SO, Park KC, Youn SW. Influence of age and regional differences on skin elasticity as measured by the Cutometer. Skin Res Technol 2008; 14(3): 354−8.

Baghaei M, Nateghi MR, Ehsani AH, Zolfaghari HR. The effect of Alpine Rose plant stem cell plus Magnolia extract on skin irri-tation following skin laser procedures. SOFW J 2013; 139(7): 54−6.

Objavljeno
2017/03/13
Broj časopisa
Vol. 73 Br. 11 (2016)
Rubrika
Originalni članak